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        <title>C&R stock cleaning</title>
        <link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/101</link>
        <description>
        <![CDATA[ Contribute your methods and discuss the <B>cleaning</B> and <B>preservation</B><BR> of dirty/oilsoaked gunstocks.

(this is <b>not</b> for total refinishing)  ]]>
        </description>

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		<copyright>Copyright 2006, Yuku</copyright>
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		<!-- channel items -->
		<!-- descriptions should be shorter than 500 char to be polite -->
		<!-- html shoud be stripped or escaped -->
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Help: Cracked Swedish Ljungman handguard ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34870/t/Help-Cracked-Swedish-Ljungman-handguard.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I have a Swedish Ljungman with a handguard crack just forward of the front band where the gas tube passes under the hand guard.  I think this is a very common
place to have a crack.  The crack was previously glued and the repair separated.  It looks like the glue was that water based yellow carpenters glue.  I put a
small chunk of the dried glue in water and it dissolved over a day or two.
<br>
<br>
I have read cabinetman&#39;s write up on repairing stock cracks with super glue.  I would like... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Curmudgeon)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34870</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 20:44:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Swede M96 with cracked stock-HOW TO FIX? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34772/t/Swede-M96-with-cracked-stock-HOW-TO-FIX-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I recently received a beautiful Swedish M1896 Mauser with the &quot;SA&quot; stamp. The stock is beautiful and it matches the receiver. So it is the original
stock. The only problem is that the stock cracked by the bayonet lug area enroute to my house thru USPS. Kind of a bummer but that happens. Anyways I would
love to repair her but I will probably buy another stock just to keep the original stock safe. The pictures I took are the best I could do. I can tweek the
crack to where it will... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (blano86)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34772</guid>
			<pubDate>Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:57:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Slow Bake Method for Cosmoline removal ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34738/t/Slow-Bake-Method-for-Cosmoline-removal.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Read about this method of removal of cosmoline, using a &quot;slow bake&quot; method to &quot;melt off&quot; the grease.  This is my version of the cosmo oven.
<br>
<br>
I ran down to Wally World and bought a Sunbeam ceramic heater for $18, then to the local Home Depot and got some 8&quot; X 5&#39; ductwork and a square adaptor
for the end for less than $20.  I then laid down some old newspapers inside of it to soak up oil/cosmoline.  To be careful, I set the heater on the next to
highest... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Dockem)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34738</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 20 Oct 2009 23:35:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Fiebling's Color on Birch ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34703/t/Fiebling-s-Color-on-Birch.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ <p>Last year I re-dyed a birch carbine stock with Fiebling&#39;s dye, and in a year it has lost most of it&#39;s color. I know leather dyes do not penetrate
the wood as well as wood stains like Miniwax and such but I was shocked to see so much of the color gone from the stock. It could have fooled most people as
walnut before but now around the comb and side the underlying birch is coming through. This winter I want to re-dye the stock, I heard that stains like those
made by Minwax are harder... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Armed 2 tha Teeth)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34703</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 17 Oct 2009 14:42:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Fire damaged wood ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34662/t/Fire-damaged-wood.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I have a Rem.03A3 stock that was in a house that caught fire. The stock is sound. The color now is a dark black/brown. Is there anyway to lighten up the color
without sanding? It appears that I might need something to penetrate down into the wood. Thanks ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (mauserdad)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34662</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:16:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Industrial Purple Question ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34661/t/Industrial-Purple-Question.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Is it OK to use industrial purple for a light clean?  What I&#39;m worried about is if this stuff will take the stain off or not. I&#39;ve got a new Yugo
M24/47 that is just lightly covered in cosmolene and I don&#39;t want to have to restain it.
<br>
<br>
-Thanks ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (thedoveshooter)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34661</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:48:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Shellac problem? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34375/t/Shellac-problem-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hey folks,
<br>
<br>
I&#39;m finally shellacking an M-38 stock from a &quot;Truck Gun&quot; I rescued. I bought garnet shellac flake and mixed it. I notice when the shellac goes on
its clear with color to it as expected but as it dries it is kind of milky rather than the clear I expected. Is something wrong with the shellac or the person
using it? Anyone know how I can fix the problem?
<br>
<br>
Regards,
<br>
Bamasurp <img src="http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif">
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bamasurp)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34375</guid>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Sep 2009 08:53:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Is my M38 going to need to be oiled with BLO then schellaced? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34361/t/--M38-going--need---oiled--BLO--schellaced-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hello everyone,
<br>
<br>
Need your help again. I have been reading up on wood finish and have a concern. I have a Mosin Nagant M38 that I stripped with Denatured Alcohol, cleaned the
stock with Purple power, then proceded to reschellac as per instructed here. My stock looked pretty dry as I was reschellacing the stock. Should I of hit it
first with a couple coats of BLO to get some oil back into it (No cosmo anywhere on rifle). Then of schellaced it? Just worrying about the stock... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (rno172)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34361</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 16 Sep 2009 23:40:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Removing oil from a tock with a vacuum pump ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34256/t/Removing-oil-from-a-tock-with-a-vacuum-pump.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Has any one ever put a greasy stock in a vacuum chamber and tried to evaporate the oil with high vacuum?
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (ireload2)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34256</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 15:40:38 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ How to strip oil finish from laminated stock? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34220/t/How-to-strip-oil-finish-from-laminated-stock-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I&#39;ve refinished a few stocks, and each time I&#39;ve used Easy-Off to strip the old finish off, and it&#39;s worked perfectly.  I&#39;m getting ready to
refinish a German laminated stock though, and from what I&#39;ve been reading it sounds like Easy-Off would be a bad idea for a laminated stock as it can
damage the glue.  Can anyone recommend a safe product/method they&#39;ve used to completely strip an oil finish from a laminated stock?  Is whiting a safe
alternative to Easy-Off?  In... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (MG185)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34220</guid>
			<pubDate>Sat, 05 Sep 2009 15:53:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Remington 512 Stock repair. ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34190/t/Remington-512-Stock-repair-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I&#39;m not a happy camper.  I just received a Remington 512 from an auction on gunboards.  The stock was advertised as having some cracks but nothin that was
flexing or loose. What I received was a stock with cracks that were not visible in the pictures.  They are active cracks in that they are flexing and part of
the stock is loose and raised.  What is involved in repairing something like this?  <a target="_blank"... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Electron Don)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34190</guid>
			<pubDate>Wed, 02 Sep 2009 21:14:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Remington 512 stock repair ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34184/t/Remington-512-stock-repair.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I&#39;m not a happy camper.  I just received a Remington 512 from an auction on gunboards.  the stock was advertised as having some cracks but nothin that was
flexing or loose. What I received was a stock with cracks that were not visible in the pictures.  They are active cracks in that they are flexing and part of
the stock is loose and raised.  What is involved in repairind something like this.  <a target="_blank"... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Electron Don)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34184</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 01 Sep 2009 23:33:17 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ diluting Chestnut ridge and R Gale Lock ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34157/t/diluting-Chestnut-ridge-and-R-Gale-Lock.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I&#39;m doing this Garand stock which is an after market CMP stock that they are putting on some service grade rifles. It had a BLO finish which I removed with
 The Purple stuff. This is a new stock, and my question is: How much do I dilute Chestnut Ridge to start with, and how do I use it? Same with the R Gale Lock.
<br>
Is it put on with a rag or a brush? This is going on a Winchester, so I guess I want WWII color. I have Chestnut Ridge, and R Gale Lock dark walnut. Any help
would be... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Mangda)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34157</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 30 Aug 2009 18:05:36 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Preserving Old Look of Garand Stock ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34122/t/Preserving-Old-Look-of-Garand-Stock.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hello, I was referred to this forum by some CMP forum members. I just received a correct grade HRA garand that is in GREAT shape. The stock obviously has
cosmoline on it that i&#39;d like to remove. My question is this: I want to remove the cosmoline and perhaps add a new coat of oil, but I don&#39;t want to
lose the old, dark look the finish currently has (see pics). If I use a heat gun (from a distance) to weep out the cosmoline, do I HAVE to do something after
this to re-coat the stock? Or... ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Recka81)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34122</guid>
			<pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 23:53:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Chestnut Ridge ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34081/t/Chestnut-Ridge.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I checked Brownell&#39;s and the no longer carry Chestnut Ridge. Can anyone tell me where to get it?
<br>
<br>
 Mangda ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (Mangda)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/34081</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 24 Aug 2009 18:13:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Mosin Nagant finish and color? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33925/t/Mosin-Nagant-finish-and-color-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ A while back I picked up a Mosin Nagant M38. The shellac finish and red-brown color had been removed, though the cartouche is still visible; it looks like it
was oil finished.  The stock looks pretty blonde.
<br>
<br>
I&#39;d like to attempt to undo this damage and return it to a more authentic color and finish. 
<br>
<br>
Should I stain it?  Can someone recommend the color?
<br>
<br>
And for finish, should I get an amber-ish shellac? ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bkbville)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33925</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Aug 2009 23:50:42 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Hungarian Mosin 48M Carbine finish ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33739/t/Hungarian-Mosin-48M-Carbine-finish.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hi Guys,
<br>
<br>
Just bought a Hungarian 48MCarbine (M44) and the Romanian who re arsenaled it did a poor job on the finish. Most of the shellace is flaked off except where it
was ladeled on. The wood looks like it has been machined without any sanding. What would be the best way to refinish? Get rid of the shellac and apply tungoil
or finn mix?
<br>
<br>
Thanks,
<br>
<br>
Axel
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (axman)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33739</guid>
			<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 18:59:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Removing Poly? (Spanish Mauser) ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33648/t/Removing-Poly-Spanish-Mauser-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I picked up a Spanish Mauser 1916; the stock was poly&#39;ed - and the job done pretty poorly - runs etc.
<br>
<br>
How can I take the poly off?
<br>
<br>
Can this be done without sanding? (I hope)
<br>
<br>
Will it remove the color of the wood (I assume the color is correct, but don&#39;t know how to tell.... anyone know what a Spanish 1916 mauser 7mm stock should
look like?) ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (bkbville)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33648</guid>
			<pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2009 23:35:55 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ First Post -Would like some advice from the experts ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33487/t/First-Post-Would-like-some-advice-from-the-experts.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ I just picked up this Springfield Garand from CMP today. Please take a look at the wood and tell me what you would recommend doing, if anything?
<br>
<br>
<br>
<img src="http://hkguns.zenfolio.com/img/v4/p904291450-5.jpg" alt="image"> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (HKGuns)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33487</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Jul 2009 00:12:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<!-- extensions -->

		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[ Mahogany? ]]></title>
			<link>http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33334/t/Mahogany-.html</link>
			<description><![CDATA[ Hi Rome,
<br>
I&#39;ve been seeing some new replacement M1 carbine stocks being offered in unfinished mahogany  What do you think about this type of wood and it suitability
for a gunstock? Any suggestions for finishing and handling this wood. TIA
<br> ]]></description>

			<!-- optional elements -->
			<author>feeds@yuku.com (flectar)</author>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/33334</guid>
			<pubDate>Tue, 23 Jun 2009 18:11:50 GMT</pubDate>
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