For more Swedish Mauser information
visit
The Dutchman's
House of Karlina
Pettson's Place
Anders Swede Board
See more pics
Surplus Rifle.Com's Rifle Data Section's
[Swedish M-1896]
| About this site |
|---|
| C&R Dealer Links | General Related Links |
| The Member's Map | The Gun Control Forum |
Due to the main focus of this site on the collecting and shooting
of C&R and military surplus firearms in their collectible original configurations,
sporterising topics will not be permitted in these fourms.
Thankyou,
ParallaxBill
Parallax's Trader Boards
See the new location at the bottom of the forum list
**Membership applications no longer required to post but you still must be registered.**
No dealers please!
Back in Production, New and Improved
Darrell's Scout Mount Page & Forum
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
losok |
!896 CG with bent bolt? |
Lead | |
|
I picked up a CG 1896 with a bent bolt. The bolt is numbered to match the action in standard factory style numbers, and all the other parts match as well. Is
this a arsenal rebuild or what?
|
|||
metzgeri |
|||
|
It could be a rifle that ended up in FSR hands and had the bolt turned down. I have read that atleast some FSR shooters had their bolts turned down. I have one myself, a 1900 Oberndorf. It doesn't look like any military bend (i.e. m/94, sniper or Huskie), nor does it look like a bad bend, like bubba would have done. Does it look like the following: metzgeri
|
|||
losok |
|||
|
Upon a closer look( I got it for $100) so I did not complain, or give it more than a function check and make sure it had a good bore and headspace, I now find
it had been cut off and welded back on with a down turn. The job is not bad and and the handle blued, so it looks pretty good. The gun is in full military
configuration, except it has been drilled and tapped for a scope on top. Its a 1915 Carl Gustav with threaded muzzle and looks like a maple stock. Kind of
bummed about it being drilled and tapped, but I could not turn it down for the price, it was too nice otherwise, but is missing the rear sight leaf. I will get
a sight, and leave it as is, to give to my kids.
pic added
Last Edited By: losok
12/24/08 11:36 AM.
Edited 1 times.
|
|||
Aubullet |
|||
|
Having already been D&T for a scope, perhaps you might as well put a scope back on it. You might be amazed at how accurate it is without the standard sight
handicap. Of course if this is your first Swede, then you'll probably be amazed at how accurate it is even with the standard sight handicap!
I have a 1909 Arg. that came with a scope mounted and bent bolt, but otherwise totally original and all matching. I now use that rifle as my testbed for handloads and other aquired ammo, and I am very happy to have it, as it eliminates many variables for me, and lets me know if the ammo/loading is a problem, or if it's just me and my old eyes! You'd be right to go ahead and get the rear sight again for it anyway, as it never hurts to have backup. It's likely a great shooter, and a hundred bucks for a great shooting centerfire rifle is a bargain in anybody's book, but you'll likely want to get yourself an unaltered Swede at some point anyway, just don't expect to get it for that cheap!!! |
|||
jkingrph |
|||
|
I thought the earliest production year was 1898.
JJK
|
|||
metzgeri |
|||
|
Losok, are both the rear reciever bridge and the forward reciever ring D/T? What I'm getting at is, was this rifle just D/T on the rear bridge for a
Diopter, or are both places D/T for scope mounts?
Shooters of Swedish Mausers with diopter sights often removed the rear sight (which blocked the view through their diopter). metzgeri |
|||
318dodge |
M1896 | ||
|
The M-96 was adopted in 1896 , but first produced by Carl Gustaf in 1898 . The M-94 was adopted in 1894 , but first produced by Mauser in 1895 , followed by
Carl Gustaf in 1898 .
|
|||
losok |
|||
|
Both rings are Drilled and tapped, but it looks like the front ring was done at a different time, as the holes much cleaner and more nicely done than the back
one, which only has one hole, not two. The guy I got it from came over to a buddies shop while I was using his mill, he said, the rifle was too long to suit
him, and the bolt would not clear the scope he put on it. I did not ask if it was D&T when he got it or not, but I assume it was, or maybe he saw the front
ring was done and did the back himself not sure on that one. He had weaver bases on it, when I took them off, is when I noticed the difference in the holes. I
may just mount the bases back up, put some older classic looking glass on it, and keep it, or it might make a nice candidate for a sniper clone with short side
rail mounts, not sure there either. The bore looks pretty good, and the throat is nice, with a good tight muzzle too. I need to get it out and shoot some more.
I have a nice M38 Husky that I need to shoot more too. Its a mix master, but I restored it with a new stock and fresh blue, as it came a barreled action with
spotty blue, and missing some parts. Its a nice looker now as shown below, its in a basic tung oiled beech stock, nothing special, but just a nice mixed up gun
that shoots pretty decent. I added the faux flash hider to protect the threads as I could not find a thread cap, at the time, but have since found one.
|
|||
MP1978 |
|||
|
losak,
I'm sorry to say but your rifle is no longer a collector piece in terms allowed by this forums rules. In all honesty it's a shame this fine rifle has met the fate it has. Enjoy your shooter grade rifle but please no other posts about this rifle on this forum...Jim |
|||
losok |
|||
|
Just out of curiosity, which one and who left you king? I originally posted just to see what it was, I know now, and like I said will keep it just to have a
good shooter. The 1938 is in straight up military configuration, so I hope you were not referring to it. I am sorry if the rifle being drilled and tapped
before I got it offends you, like I said it was too good a deal to pass up. The way you act I might as well go ahead and chop it up. Thanks. Just to let you
know I did get a rear sight on it, and now other than the bent bolt, and DT its back the way it should be. If I find a bolt I will replace it and keep the old
one since it is the original one.
|
|||
MP1978 |
|||
|
I think you'll find that Parallax Bill, who happens to own this forum. made me the underking. I host and moderate this forum and I allowed you to gain the
info you asked for about the m/96 and m/38 but I've asked you not to post anything else about these particular rifles. I commend your attempt to return
them to as close to military appearance as you could ,however if you read the rules of this forum you will find that the "subject" is to be in
original or correct military surplus firearms that have not been permanately altered. The m/96 has been "drilled and tapped" for scope mounts and the
m/38, while a put together barreled action, you stated that you used tung oil on the stock and reblued the action. Neither of these are correct or original as
the Swede's used "linseed oil" on their stocks and removing the correct military finish on the barreled action to place a new finish on it has
made it "permanately altered" from what the Swede's used. The stockset could be returned to military spec but I'm afraid the action on the
m/38 is as altered as the drilled and tapped m/96. I don't think I was rude in my response and I didn't flame you. I look forward to you posting about
rifles that fall into this forums rules and wish you would have asked a few questions here before you permanately altered the m/38's action...Jim
|
|||
losok |
|||
|
Not to stir the pot, but I read many posts on here about rifles getting new barrels, even barrels not matching dates etc. Those are just as altered as mine. I
bought the rifle(M38) in the condition it came from Samco, with bluing more gone than there. I got the stock with no finish on it. This all took place more
than two years ago before I found this forum. I am a full time gunsmith building tactical and hunting rigs mostly. I do the mausers as a hobby of mine. I
wanted to make sure this rifle would be around for my kid's kids to shoot. The stock disk on it came from the broken stock that was with the rifle(it was
listed as cracked but that is not accurate. It was not a crack that could be fixed and be solid to shoot) This rifle had not been well maintained on the
outside, so I took great pains to do it as right as possible. I used a bluing formula that has been around since the early 30s and polished it out only to the
point of making it look as it did when it left the factory. Any deep pits etc are still there, as are all the factory marks and stamps. I have seen many posts
about other folks here and there using tung oil, as I said, if I had known I would use BLO, its not a good finish(BLO), but if correct I would have done it.
This stock appears to be only marked from storage and appeared to have not been finished before I did it, it was bare wood with minor dings and dents that are
still there. I will always be on the look out for a good swede, but finding them is not as easy as it once was.
By the way I have to ask, if a gun was to be rebarreled as needed due to bad bore etc, if the person wanted to shoot it, and the blue was way off, or the sights do not line up, would I be in the wrong to correct those issues to make the rifle safe or accurate to shoot? If you have ever worked on mausers, swede or otherwise, you know that not all of them will line up perfect sight wise when a new barrel is installed, this is why I ask. That is not the case with these, but I have had that come up on other mausers. |
|||
MP1978 |
|||
|
losok,
I don't want to make a fuss either but this is what's stated on the front page of this forum; "Due to the main focus of this site on the collecting and shooting of C&R and military surplus firearms in their collectible original configurations, sporterising topics will not be permitted in these fourms." The m/96 definately falls into the sporterizing area because of the tapping of the receiver for non military scope mounts. I realize that you put together the m/38, I've done so with a m/94-14. I didn't refinish the stockset or the barreled action. I bought as nice a pieces as I could find in the first place. It's true some people have posted about useing other finishes but you will find those people were advised as to the correct finish and most have said they would refinish the item to correct military type finishes. We also have let people post about fixing shot out barrels but advised them to keep the correct one to send with the rifle if it was ever sold. This goes as well with broken parts as well. We try to preserve rifles in as correct a condition as possable. Reblueing actions is a permanant modification and significantly alters value and collectability. Just like in antique furniture it's best to leave the piece old looking and beat up with little or no finish than to try and refinish it. I think you'll find that I'm very consistant in the way I monitor this forum. I try to be reasonable while staying within the rules made by the forum owner. Please understand that if I don't say anything to you, then later on someone else is going to bring it up and ask why I said something to them. If it wasn't for the enjoyment I get out of collecting and helping others learn about the main focus of my collection I would have given up monitoring this forum years ago...Regards, Jim |
|||
cruffel |
Maple stock? | ||
|
The folks over here might be interested in seeing it. http://forums.gunboards.com/forumdisplay.php?f=49
|
|||
MP1978 |
|||
|
Hi cruffle,
The rules on that forum are very close to the ones on this forum. I sent him to Bear 8mm's old forum where sporterized and other permanately altered rifle topics are OK...Jimbo |
|||
Cisco |
|||
|
Losok, what kind of scope do you think would go best on that rifle? Maybe a red dot aim point. What are your thoughts?
|
|||