http://img.villagephotos....3/rearsightleafspring.jpg

GOT THE SPRING OUT!!!!

Soaked it for a few days with Hoppe's #9 solvent, then put a soldering iron to it. Used one of those old Weller heavy-duty irons which is shaped like a pistol and weighs about as much as a pistol. Applied the heat to the flat area, where the guy is holding the spring in the above photo.Then I use a flat bladed screwdriver and drove the spring forward, towards the muzzle.

One problem with the "no gunsmith" scope mounts is that their alignment depends on the alignment of the original rear sight base. I have now put shims under the NcStar scope tube, between the scope tube and the rear Weaver ring. These shims jacked up the rear of the scope, which results in the scope being pointed more downward, to mostly compensate for the upward bias in the bias of the original scope base.

The best alignment vertically is using two aluminum shims, each just below 0.010 inch thick. The shims were cut with scissors from "aluminum valley roll", a roofing product from a hardware store. Thus the total vertical shim thickness is about 19 thousandths of an inch.

The best way to accomplish horizontal alignment I have come up with is to TIGHTLY bend a one square inch piece of valley roll into a 90 degree angle. Then, using scissors, I'll cut this piece down so that each leg is about 1/16 inch long. Then I'll cut the length of this piece to be about the same length as the Weaver ring base. I'll insert this tiny piece of aluminum between the scope base and the claw on the Weaver rear ring base. When the ring base claw is tightened up against the scope base this little insert will jack the scope either right or left. In my case I need to swing the rear of the scope slightly to the left.

Here are a few details of my Dremel-work:

I got the wrong Spanish Mauser scope mount from S&K. I'm sure I could have returned it and gotten the right mount, but when I realized how little work would be required to make this one work, I decided to go ahead.

The roller-coaster contours of both parts matched, or I would have not even tried it. But the rear sight cross-pin hole was drilled maybe 1/16 inch high on the mount I got. You can see that the contours, while shaped alike, do not perfectly jam together, but are offset by about 1/16. This is because I decided to keep the original cross-pin and hole.

I had to Dremel a little off the S&K mount in the vicinity of the cross-pin on both sides of the mount so that the cross-pin holes would line up. I tapped the mount into place with a lead bar, and stuck a tiny screwdriver through the hole once they lined up. A small nail would have worked

The major amount of Dremel work was to remove a 1/8 inch high pedestal of aluminum about ½ inch wide from the mount. This pedestal was about half way down the mount from the pin end, and prevented the mount from scissoring to fit when rotated about the pin. I kept removing the screwdriver and tapping the aluminum mount free from the steel rear sight base, doing a little Dremeling on the pedestal, then reassembling to check for fit.

When I got the fit about right, I sanded and cleaned the steel with acetone/alcohol, reassembled and put the real pin back in, and put a few drops of clear two-part epoxy on the steel where the aluminum was to sit. So the scope mount is held at the front by the really tight pin, and at the back only by the epoxy. After I shoot it some, I will keep checking to see if there is any creep.

As it turns out, I took off the entire aluminum pedestal. I got a good bore-sight with only about 0.020 inches of vertical shim, so my fit was fair.

http://img.villagephotos....986073/shimsinstalled.jpg