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John Doe |
Re-blueing a Luger |
Lead | |
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My father has an old long barreled Luger (Artillery?) that is HEAVILY rusted. It was in damp cellar for years and you could probably sharpen a pencil by
rubbing it against the rusty metal. This gun is all matching numbers, except for the grips. We think that any collector value is pretty much gone because of
the rust. We are thinking of having the metal polished up and re-blued and making it a shooter. What are your thoughts.
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wworker |
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Depending on the depth of the pitting, you may be right.
However, if the rust is surface only, consider stripping down the gun and placing the metal parts in an oil bath for several weeks. The oil will neutralize the rust. After the oil bath, clean off the parts and reassemble. Then take another look at the pistol. Rebluing will definitely remove all collector value of the pistol even if it is rusted, so rebluing should be a last resort. Collector values on old pistols go something like this (all matching serial numbers implied): Pristine condition, highest value Lesser amounts of bluing left, but no pitting, next highest value Pitted, lower value Pitted and reblued, lowest value ![]() |
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John Doe |
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I'll ask him to dig it out so we can inspect the amount of rust and pitting. Thanks.
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Colin |
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With all matching numbers that artillery luger still has collector's value. How much rust is on the inner surfaces of the receiver, barrel extension and
toggle joint? Copious amounts of elbow grease applied to 0000 steel wool and WD-40, will take off most of the rust. Then see what you have. What's the bore
like? I have a Colt Banker's Special in 22 LR (fairly rare) that was so heavily rusted you couldn't get the cylinder open. Much steel wool and WD-40
later it's quite presentable.
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John Doe |
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I'll try to talk him into it. He may be too afraid to make it worse. Maybe I can get a couple of pictures as well.
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wworker |
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That reminds me of my dad who was to afraid to get his single shot .410 shotgun repaired for about 30 years.
Back in the 70s, a shade tree (jack-leg) gunsmith tried to "fix" the shotgun for dad, but ended up making a mess out of it, loosing parts, etc. My dad finally broke down a few years ago and let me fix it and in a week's time, I had received the replacement parts from Numrich, reblued the barrel, and put it all back together again and it worked fine. I had fun fixing the shotgun, but dad was shocked. ![]() |
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Colin |
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Scrubbing with 0000 steel wool and oil won't remove any blueing, but will remove a large part of the rust. Try it and see.
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Gabreski 1st FJ |
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As an example heres a type 99 I picked up for 100$. It was a major rust bucket. The metal was the same color as the wood. Luckily it was all surface rust. Some
oil soaking and steel wool revealed about 90% blue underneath. Couldnt believe it.
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zaxxons |
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I had a Luger reblued years ago. When I bought it there was no finish and some yoyo had tried to remove the barrel with a pipe wrench and really tore up the
barrel.
Some times I wish I had just left it alone. People are correct, try to do a deep cleaning with WD40 and 0000 steel wool, may be suprised |
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LuciferSam |
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I've also got an old luger. Its in pretty good overall condition, but alot of the bluing is gone (no rust). Would an oil soak help bring some blue back
up, and what type of oil are you talking about soaking it in? Thanks.
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wworker |
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What the oil is going to do is to stop the rust from progressing, stabilizing the finish, whatever remains.
I use 10W30 motor oil, 10W30 because that's what I had around the house. I keep the oil separate from the car use oil so I don't accidently put it into a car, the containers marked for soaking metal parts. ![]() |
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Budop |
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Gone blue is gone.
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LuciferSam |
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Thanks for the info.
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John Doe |
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Haven't been able to get him to dig it out yet. We'll see.
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