
My "bringback" 1917 Amberg Gew 98
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Surplus Rifle.Com's Rifle Data Section's
[German 98k]
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raywaugh |
russian capture mauser 98k blot finish problem |
Lead | |
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I just bought a Russian capture 98k and when i was cleaning the bolt with Hoppes #9 the rag turned very black and it appeared i was removing the bolt's
finish. I switched to using denatured alcohol and nothing came off the bolt. Does anyone know what exactly the germans used to finish the bolts and if the
russians did anything to refinish or add onto what the germans did? Aso while cleaning part of the bolt I saw a wear streak appear with an electropenciled
number that was not visible before. If anyone could tell me whats going on and if I was removing the finish or what it would be of great help.
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Crunch130 |
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Raywaugh,
You didn't hurt anything. The Russians put black paint on a lot of the parts after they reblued them, perhaps as a rust preventive (intended to be removed before shooting). While you want to keep Hoppes off the wood, anything it removes from the metal is a good thing. I just cut to the chase with mine and used lacquer thinner on the metal and a bristle brush. The EP'd number on the bolt is normal for an RC and should match the serial number on the receiver. Welcome Aboard! Crunch |
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raywaugh |
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How did the bolt turn out after soaking in lacquer thinner? The area around the electro penciled number has wear streaks and has unfinished steel showing
through. Would the rest be the original German bluing? From what I've read the Russians didn't go through much trouble trying to match part numbers and
refinish the metal. Thanks for the info.
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Wulfmann |
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There are two schools' of thought on K98k RCs.
One, it should be left as the Ruskies refinished it as that is its new history and the other is who cares what horrors Ivan did to our beloved Teutonic made parts, remove his evil stains and re-Germanize them as much as possible. It is your gun, do what you want so any way you do it is the right way to you. Personally, I restore them to as German as possible and one thing is removing any Russian refinish and taking off the elctro pencil I have a portable belt sander which when the curved bolt is pressed into the space behind the pulley drive wheel and before the flat of the bottom (I have it turned upside down for this) the belt wraps around the bolt body and takes off the electro pencil. I also remove the EP from all other parts if present and Oxpho-blue the gun, everything after I have wire brushed everything (and lacquer thinner washed) I use a small torch to heat all the parts before I put on the Oxpho-Blue (I use a toothbrush to blue it) I buy extra parts or more than one gun and switch out the stock (which I sand off the RC number) bands, TG, FP, whatever to return it to as much as possible that year and code's configuration. If I can get lucky enough I try and use parts that have the correct WaA but that is hard to do completely. When I have finished a batch I sell the ones I do not want but contrary to what some seem to think is OK I put it is an RC on the label even if it no longer looks like one. I have seen RC guns that sellers stated were not RC in spite of the Ivan "X" property mark I have enjoyed doing the research and restoring a bunch of these but finding good ones with good bores at reasonable prices is all but history. Most of the restored K98K I have sold went for $275.00-$400.00 and that is what good RCs pre-restroation are now selling for so I am done doing it but, as I said, it was great fun and if the right K98k came along I would do another. Wulfmann
"The right to bear arms should not be infringed upon if only to prevent tyranny in government." Thomas Jefferson; Constitutional debates.
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