Also known as the M88 Mauser, Gew 88, Kar88, and Gewehr 88.
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bsheets20061 |
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haha nice...I don't know why though I have my fair share of mausers and I have to say this is definitely up there with them with functionality and it looks
alot prettier to me...but that's just me I guess
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brass rat |
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It was light hand loaded ammunitionIf you are already hand loading for it then headspace is a moot point. Just fire form some cases for it and enjoy. Thats one of the major advantages of handloading, custom fit ammo.
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Why not join us at Milsurp After Hours handloading forum |
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TP |
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To clarify some of the misinformation in this thread on the Gew88/14, please see:
http://web.archive.org/we...topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=22828 This is taken from web.archive.org and was originally posted on "John P. Sheehan's World War I Militaria And Arms" on the old version of Gunboards Forums. There is a great deal of accurate information on the magazine and receiver modifications of these very rare rifles, none of which came here from Turkey. Of the Gew88 versions, the Turks received only Gew88/05 rifles from Germany during their alliance with Germany during WW1. There are three pages and while it does get tiresome at times, it is well worth the read. Also, as explained by "JPS" (John Sheehan, noted WWI collector and historian) in this thread: http://forums.gunboards.com/showthread.php?t=9415 his example illustrated has been confirmed to be a Gew88/14 by Dr. Dieter Storz, author of "M 98 RIFLE AND CARBINE - M98 Firearms of the German Army from 1898 to 1918", THE book on the subject of the German military 98. Dr. Storz is the Small Arms Curator of the the Bayerisches Armeemuseum in Ingolstadt and this example shown in the above thread is identical to the example in the collection he oversees there. See John's post dated May 31, 2009 in this thread. If it is good enough for the Bavarian Army Museum, it is good enough for me. |
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blitz99 |
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Incorrect information by "experts" . Storz is wrong , same as all the other incorrrect information that has been published [and republished] about
Gew-88's . JPS's is just a copy of the one in the book . There are also 2 different types , 88/05/14's and 88/14's . There is existing
documents in Germany that state 88/14's were shipped to Turkey . Gew-88/14's are not very rare if you know what you are looking for .
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TP |
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blitz99 wrote:Sorry Mag, while I will always look to you for advice on reloading and bore dimensions on the Gew88 or any other rifle for that matter, I feel that you are mistaken on your historical information about the Gew88/14. We have never seen any of the German language information you say you have so how can we judge? Not saying that it doesn't exist or that it isn't correct with a proper translation, just that it needs to be shared so that informed discussion can be held. I seriously doubt that Dr. Storz is wrong in his informed opinion. I have personally seen two Gew88/14, both marked to Bavarian wartime issue and post-WW1 use by the "EWB", so I feel that the majority, if not all of them, stayed in Germany and were destroyed to comply with the Treaty of Versaille. OR that they were sent to other allies during the War - Bulgaria is a possibility.
Last Edited By: TP
06/16/09 11:34 AM.
Edited 1 times.
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blitz99 |
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The bad information about Gew-88's started from published works . Alot of it is clearly wrong if you just look . The notch was cut for the longer
"S" round , just put the P-88 and "S" cartridge next to each other and you can see this is not correct . The original bores were .318 ,
again just look at a real bore . It goes on and on . Back to the 88/14 . The only "proof" is a photo in ONE book , and that rifle contradicts what
the WWI German armorer's manual has in print . Here are the technical , mechanical and common sense reasons that rifle is not a 88/14 . The manual clearly
states the easiest way to identify one is the GEW-98 type thumb cut out for loading . It also tells of the different style magazine parts . The blob weld for a
clip guide does not match the German discription which says " TWO parts melted into one" . That is not a blob weld, which is not a part . Also there
are mechanical reasons why they would not do that. First it would be much harder to do and take much longer than just spot welding two metal tabs on . Second
that much heat would tend to warp the thin rear receiver and then you would have to file or cut the guide cuts into the weld. The real stated difference
between the 05 and 14 guides was the type of welding. The 05 was gas spot welded , the 14 was electric welded . Electric welding was made common place in
Germany in 1914 in armament manufacture . Also if you look at a 05 you can see the heat circle left by the gas heat required to do that type of weld . On a
real 14 that circle is not there as electric spot weld is quick and does not spread heat . The notion that the 05 was riveted is from a technical
mistranslation . The term rivet was used as a verb to mean attach two parts together, not as a noun as in a actual rivet . Again all you have to do is know how
a rivet works and look at a 05 to see it CAN NOT be riveted, there is no hole on the under side . The receiver is too thin there for anything but a weld . Plus
I did knock a guide off a 05 receiver and it was clearly welded . The Germans fielded the 05 and the 14 as the same weapon , it worked the same as far as a
soldier knew . Only an armorer needed to know the differances in parts to work on a rifle . There would be no reason to seperate the two, other than in
production records , in German use or when sending rifles to the Turks . Also there are 05/14's , as I have a few and it is clear where the 14 update was
done over the 05 update . The blob weld is much cruder than anything the Germans ever did, workmanship , or mechanical . Who did the rifle in the book ? , I do
not know . I could only speculate . It is clearly a barn quaility bit of work , was it done to "update" a Gew-88 after the war for the internal
fighting? The fact that JPS's rifle is an exact copy of the one in the book proves nothing other than that . I have a Belgian post WWI made Gew-88 sporter
that the gunsmith made his OWN clip guides and magazine conversion , so it was also done by others . I have a Gew-88 that really looks to be a late war German
14 conversion for many reasons . The receiver is really pitted [ like a battlefield recovery ] , it has a German proofed birch stock , a new German bolt
release , A Gew-98 barrel cut down to fit and there is NO pitting in the thumb cut out or bullet clearance notch . That tells me the Germans did the cutting ,
as they clearly put the other parts on . That is why I think the "14" in the book may be a very rare rifle, but not a 14 . All of the German
documents are still out there, you just have to find them . The 14 question is just like all the other incorrect " facts " that were spread around by
people not doing any real research , just repeating what was in a book . In the 1400's the fact that the world was flat was in all the books , so
sometimes it does pay to look at the real item . Everything " proving " the rifle in the book is a 14 itself has no basis other than the book
says it is . People who are technically or mechanicaly ignorrant can interperate something they read incorrectly by not realizing that it just can not work
like they think . Just because a guy works at a museum does not mean he is a technical expert , the guy on the Military Channel who is from a museum is one of
the most armament ignorrant people I have ever seen . He just repeats what ever he has heard and adds more to it making it even worse . He is entertaining
though as we are always calling each other up and laughing about his latest amazing statement .
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gewehrdorkus |
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Mag ; I at times agree with you , but you miss this one. Every ... EVERY 88/05 with charger guides added have perfectly round "rivets" where held to
the receiver... try that with period weld equipment , and be that consistant, betcha can't.
The Notch is not cut for a longer round.. jeez louise even a grunt can see that the mauser charger pitches the S patronen forward when loading to necessitate the 'notch' to effect cleanl & smooth loading. If a rivet is hammered in place in the red hot state it can act as though welded in place. "that tells me the germans did it" on the rifle you describe has no back up... it's just because you say so.. show us pics of this anomaly if you would. Storz had considerably less flaws than the Late Mr Law.. considerably fewer , and being Imperial era rifles at least for now are not faked to any passable extent to 'experianced collectors' of period examples I think you are reaching on your conclusions. |
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blitz99 |
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The hole is perfectly round because the weld was ground off flush with the top of the guide .You can SEE the machine marks there. That is called a spot weld,
you fill the hole in the guide with weld then grind it flush, it leaves a circle the same size as the hole the weld filled . I do this type of weld all the
time, that is how it turns out. It is not riveted , that is not how a rivet works . Let me exlpain how a rivet works , you can also look it up . To put two or
more parts together you have a hole that runs through all the parts . You put the rivet through the hole , the rivet head keeps it from pulling through . You
then can use heat to soften the rivet , use a pre heated rivet, or a softer metal rivet and hammer/smash the exposed end flat. That pinches the parts together
. I can not believe you are arguing how a rivet works, I thought everyone knew how a rivet works . I have riveted many thing, I know how a rivet works . Just
watch a tv show on how steel beams are made into a building . On a Gew-88 receiver there is NO hole through the receiver where the guide is attached , there is
NO rivet head . On top of all that I HAVE seen the weld . As far as the bullet notch goes, over hang means nothing as the rear of the cartridge is IN the
stripper , which is IN the guide , that means the round will clear when it gets to that point on the way in. All you have to do is measure the cartridge lenght
and the space from the stripper clip face. The cartridge lenght is shorter than the space. Also I have put tape over the notch and loaded a full clip of
"S" ammo without touching the tape . If you look at the notch you will see it is the same shape as the nose of the P-88 bullet and tapered to guide
it in. Again all you have to do is load a stripper clip with P-88 ammo and load the rifle, you will see it guide through the notch . I have done these tests
and you can not tell me it did not work . When they did the 05 conversion there was still alot of P-88 ammo, they wanted it to be able to be used with a
stripper clip in the 05 . That is why the Gew-98 is made too long for the "S" ammo, so P-88 will still fit . Set a "S" round next to a P-88
round , the P-88 round is LONGER . All you have to do is look to see this . What I do not understand is how you can think otherwise . Explain how a rivet would
work if it did not go through a hole ?
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TP |
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blitz99 wrote: |
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TP |
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I do have another question. You say that you have German documentation that the Gew88/14 rifles were sent to Turkey, can you name this source? Perhaps it
discusses arms sent to others as well? Many would like to see the documentation since I'm sure it is not exclusive to the 88/14 shipments and might do a
lot to help those that are trying to understand how many and what guns were actually supplied to Germany's allies during the Great War.
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blitz99 |
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I never used the term plug rivet , always spot weld or plug weld . When I say mechanicaly ignorrant, I mean of mechanics . Examples : You say the guide could
be put on with a screw . The receiver is only 0.110 thick in that area . The "hole" if there was one does not go all the way through. That means the
Hole could only be at best 0.090 deep . When you thread a blank hole you do not get the last thread or two . The smallest thread pitch that would be usable
would be about 1/40 . That would mean there would only be about 1 to 2 threads holding .On top of that , since the guide would have to have a shoulder in
it's "screw" hole to be held on , that would leave the so called screw with almost no threaded shaft and since threads on the screw and
"hole" would not be exactly in sinc, you would lose another 1/2 thread or so . And the screw would have to be exact to the 0.001 . Mechanicaly that
would not work . . Example #2 . A rivet works by compression . You can NOT have compression by one side only . A rivet MUST have a head on one side to keep it
from pulling through . There is NO rivet head or a on a guide or a through hole on the receiver . To remove a rivet , you grind of the head and it can be
pushed out . That right there is the MECHANICAL reason it can not be a rivetd on part . The misstranslation was mechanical in it's nature . I posted some
photos for you on GB that show clearly what Bill thinks about welding circles and bullet notches is not true . That is an example of incorrect information
being passed along by mechanical ignorrance . I never said the spot weld was gas only, I said it can be and was done both ways. The spots are round because the
hole the weld filled was round [ see GB photos ] . Also if you look at enough 05 guides , you will see a few where the gas weld "keyholed " by
melting the edge of the hole's circle . Any "brass"color would be flux used during welding . Spot welding is plenty strong enough for that
applacation , the one I knock off did not want to leave . It works like it should and there would have been no reason the replace it with a method that would
take much more time to do and be able to warp the receiver.
Again , unlike Bill thinks , molten steel will not weld to cold steel by touching it , both parts have to be molten. Otherwise whenever you hit a molten part with a hammer on an anvil you would "weld your hammer to the anvil ! Information does get taken , I have seen much of what I have shared by posting [ to the word ] show up in other peoples articles with no credit . My German translator has a German masters in the language . Again, look at the GB photos . they disprove some of the "answers" you said I was given . Look at the "S" round clearing the receiver without using the notch . Look at the notch's shape with the P-88 bullet in it . Look at the circle weld . |
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TP |
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blitz99 wrote:
Last Edited By: TP
06/18/09 09:15 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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blitz99 |
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I will cover a few points at a time . First , in post # 27 Bill states the notch was cut for the clearance of the "S" round [ using the term
"overhang" ] . He also said a ground weld would not be round, I showed it was . Read it , that is what he said . Back to the rivet. What you justed
discribed is called a pin , it is pinning something together . We are talking about riveting , which is not pining. So if it is pinned it is NOT riveted . If
it is screwed, it is NOT riveted . The reciever is 0.110 thick on the lower part under the guide and part of any hole would catch part of the 0.110 area. .
Since there is no hole through the receiver there , that means a dead end hole would have to be less than 0.110 deep . That is not enough to hold anything .Put
a pin 0.10 deep and see how it holds . And beating a metal pin hard enough to smash it into a hole would bend the receiver there as the whole lower area is
only 0.110 thick . Plus I knocked a guide off, there was no pin , just a torn weld .
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TP |
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blitz99 wrote:
Last Edited By: TP
06/19/09 12:23 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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TP |
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blitz99 wrote: |
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A1Coyote |
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I respect everybodies opinions, so allow me my two cents.
blitz99, I respect a lot of the information you have shared regarding Gew 88 lands, grooves, rifling, barrel types, reload info and the like. Truely. Among other things, I collect Imperial german bayonets. From the S1871 to the humble ersatz blades, you will find rivets. Sometimes they are very tough to spot. But they are there. Perhaps the correct engineering term would be pins, I really do not know for sure. But they were ground down to the point that when new, it might have been truely hard to notice they were even there. But they are. I have not been fortunate enough to examine hundreds, or even dozens of Gew 88/05's. I own but one myself. I have seen quite a few over the past few years. Almost every one I have seen, you can see the pins' shapes no mater how good of a job was done in 1906-1907. You can also notice the solder generally, (wish I could solder so neatly) around the bottem edges of the /05 guides and the action. I am not a welder, although I was an apprentice welder in a fab shop over 30 years ago. I also was an HVAC technician for several years, and worked part time as a plumber doing rough in work for new construction & renovations. I've done a lot of spot welding, and have spent many, many hours soldering. I know a little, so I would ask myself this question: If they were using the pins, and soldering the guides, why weld anything else afterwards? Wouldn't the heat from welds jack up the solder job? Welding does use higher temps than soldering, no? Or would one perhaps weld the pins in place first from the inside of the action, then grind the weld down, apply the guides, then solder them. As tight as it would be to weld from that angle, why not just solder the pins in first, sans any welding? More than likely, I would think the pins would be fine in their own.
Last Edited By: A1Coyote
06/19/09 03:24 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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