Removing dents from stock and other???

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Black Lab	Removing dents from stock and other???	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (06/18/09 02:43 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tags : None Hi Everyone, I just joined your forum and I am fairly new to Enfields although I have had some many years ago. I recently purchased an all matching #4 mk2 Irish contract rifle and a Santa Fa Carbine That's another story. Lastly a very nice #5 that I bought for a truck/camp gun. I know that last statement will have a lot of you wondering about it's fate. All my firearms are treated like babies. I purchased a number of butt stocks and was going to replace the butt stock on the #4 because it has a small crack. I am going to put another butt stock with a "limbSaver" recoil pad on the #5. The butt stocks that I bought have a few small dents. I stripped them 3 times with " Circa 1850 " furniture stripper and cleaned it 3 times with Lacquer thinner. I tried Ironing them out with a wet , but not dripping cloth without much luck. Lastly the #5 has a hair line crack about 1" long starting at the rear for-stock, just below the pin. I was thinking about soaking some "crazy glue" into the crack, I am not sure how to post a picture, I hope my description is enough. Maybe you guy's have some better ideas ??? Jack
Ed Novak		#1	[-]
Posts: 2001 (06/18/09 06:31 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Welcome Black Lab: Fine looking Lab! We have a 125lb "happy boy" Black Lab and love him a lot. I've done the same wet-cloth and steam iron trials on rifles over the past many years and never, ever had a really good result in steaming out dents but I think that the dents may have been more like gouges and wood was missing - no way to raise missing wood I guess. I keep trying this method and maybe it really does help, just not enough to make the change really notable. ? Soaking crazy glue into a crack is worth a try but I think that some compression is also needed; this glue sets so quickly though that I'd probably try a "crazy glue" in a viscous rather than a runny liquid form. C Clamps, etc. NRA Endowment member LECS #2
Black Lab		#2	[-]
Posts: 2 (06/18/09 09:51 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	That's not really my lab, but he look's pretty much the same, minus the rabbit ears. The way some people talk on other forums it sounds like a "piece of cake" to steam out dent's. Something like a fingernail indent will come out, but I think that's about it. I don' know what the inside looks like, But when I get time, maybe this winter, I will strip the stock to get any oils out and try the "Crazy Glue" Jack
supers1	Dents	#3	[-]
Posts: 246 (06/19/09 09:35 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Other than steaming (or some unknonw to me other method), you may be stuck with the dents. Not so bad. Remember behind every dent there is a history. This is what is so attractive to many Enfield buffs. Who knows what action your rifles have had.? To some, the dents add character.
brass rat		#4	[-]
Posts: 2040 (06/19/09 09:41 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Damn, Ed, I thought my Lab Max was big at 107 pounds. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Why not join us at Milsurp After Hours handloading forum
shotout		#5	[-]
Posts: 33 (06/19/09 10:32 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	On most of mine the dents are worth half the price I paid for the rifle.shotout
Black Lab		#6	[-]
Posts: 6 (06/20/09 01:05 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	My lab must be the Skinny one on the block. The most he weighed was 101 pounds about 2 years ago. he's been dieting since then and is about 82 pounds now. I don't think my rifles have any interesting history. They are all post war rifles. I guess the "Irish Contract" rifle may have been somewhere. The #5 looks like it's been hidden away most of it's life. Jack
temperflash		#7	[-]
Posts: 406 (06/20/09 09:57 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I've steamed out dents more than 1/4 inch deep, it takes many applications, and I've found the point of an old cake knife heated on a stove eye to work better than a travel iron, it allows better concentration of the heat. Soaking the surface with Tri-Sodium Phosphate to draw out old oil will open the grain and dampen the wood under the surface, and to some extent begin the process of pulling dents. They come out easier after using TSP anyway. Sometimes I've started pulling a dent before drawing out old oil and the wood began to bleed old blackened oil and solvent residues. The stains and discolorations are harder to get out then. Its always better to draw out old oil and dirt before you start on the dents. Our Dog is some sort of Bulgarian Herd dog, they look like a Border Collie on Steroids. He weighs over 130 pounds and is as solid as a tree stump. He's so long and muscle bound he can't turn around in a hallway and has to back up into an open doorway to change direction. We've considered putting one of those back up alarms on him like they use for dump trucks. Fast as lightning for all that weight.
eagle7		#8	[-]
Posts: 3955 (06/20/09 01:17 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I've had some success steaming out dents. Steaming works well if the wood has already been stripped of any finish, oil, etc. I use either the steam from the spout of a boiling teapot, or I pour boiling water on a piece of old towel which has been placed on the dented area. Patience is the key to a good job. Wood fibers that have been torn or bruised will not come out as well as simple compression dents. A gouge is missing wood, and all the steaming in the world will not "grow" new wood to fill the gouge. I have found that care has to be taken not to darken the raised dents; it seems the swelled wood absorbs or BLO or stain than the unsteamed wood.
m1 talker		#9	[-]
Posts: 6824 (06/20/09 01:28 PM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	There is a liquid stuff available at the hardware stores that swells up wood. It is made by Dap, and is called Wood Swell and Lock. One of my Garands had developed a bit more looseness in the trigger guard to stock fitting that holds the rifle together, so I tried it and it worked perfectly. That was about four years ago and still it is a nice tight fit. I have also used it to remove small depressions in the wood on various stocks with good results. Just as long as the wood fibers are not broken. Best to take some mineral spirits or something to degrease and remove as much oil from the spot as you can, so it will soak in better. Two days worth of soaking with that stuff, and some of the depressions were actually sticking up proud above the wood, which a bit of sandpaper fixed up. These were on commercial rifles, however, so I was not afraid of using sandpaper, which is a no-no to me with a milsurp. Then after you are finished swelling the wood, go ahead and put your BLO or whatever on it. For some unknown reason, I have had bad luck with trying to steam out dents. I tried a steam iron, and ironing them out with a wet rag and the whole works, but all it did was to slightly improve it, but this stuff did the trick. Curt
Black Lab		#10	[-]
Posts: 8 (06/21/09 01:56 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks for all the Replies Gents. I have given it all I could. Stripped 3 Times, Rinsed, Washed 3x with Menthel Hydrate, Washed 3x with Laquer thinner, Bleached 3x, Rinsed and dried with Methyl Hydrate again. repeated times with the iron until the bottom was Scorched !!! I just found out it was my daughters iron I am going finish it and say It' just Character
bambam91		#11	[-]
Posts: 126 (06/22/09 09:06 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	You are in trouble! Just remind her it is Fathers day, and hope for the best. To remove oils or grease from wood use xylene, n-hexane, or ethyl ether. These are used in analytical chemistry to remove all fat from samples. They work very well. careful to use in a well ventilated are and use no open flames. The model airplane guys use it to remove castor oil (gummy castor is worse than cosmoline) from balsa wood. It works well enough to allow glue to adhere, that needs to be very dry (non oily), otherwise the plane comes apart in mid air Yes I have had them do that to me I am experimenting on an old set of '07 bayonet grips from 1917. So far they went from almost black to a light brown, using n-hexane.
BurgieC	Wood swell idea	#12	[-]
Posts: 108 (06/26/09 11:34 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Thanks m1 talker for the heads up on this product. I have a few items to pick up at Ace hardware today so I have put this on the list. burgie http://www.dap.com/product_details.aspx?BrandID=153&SubcatID=24