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| Author | Comment | ||
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Black Lab |
Bleaching Wood ??? |
Lead | |
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Does anyone have any experience with bleaching wood ??? I have been stripping some bits and pieces and would like to get a even color !!! Any thoughts ???
Jack
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Metaleer |
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I have tried bleaching a few times but with mixed results. It all depends on what type of oil or grease has stained the wood. Try Dawn or GoJo in a remote area
first. They sometimes will break up the stain better than just bleach. You must completely clean the area after wards before bleaching and finishing to make
sure you have removed all residual material. Again try a small unseen area first.
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beanstrung |
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If you are dealing with the super-dark forestock on an Ishapore 2A, your efforts will be futile. I tried bleaching mine, with repeated applications of the wood
bleach, but it stayed extremely dark. I ended up having to dye the handguards & buttstock super-dark to match.
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10 |
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eagle7 |
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Wood bleach also will not remove or fade black iron oxide stains in the wood.
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Black Lab |
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I got some wood bleach made by"Dynamic" from ICI paints this morning. I have a couple of butt stocks that I was going to try and match one of them to a #4 Enfield that has a cracked butt and I was going to put a cheek piece on the other to make a "Sniper Clone" for the same rifle. I have stripped both pieces 3 times and washed them down with lacquer thinner 3 times but they still have a few dark spots. I'll let you know how it worked this evening. Jack |
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Black Lab |
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Well it was a interesting day. I started with a #5 hand guard, I found if you leave it in the 2 part bleach solution to long it eats wood. Maybe it was soft to
start. Next the butt stocks, they had a few odd stains. I masked them and applied bleach to though spots for about 3-4 Min's. then removed the tape and
washed it down with the bleach for about 5 Min's. changed the solution and washed it down again for about 5 Min's. rinced it, dried it and it
didn't look Quite Right. I poured some household bleach in a tub and washed it for another 4-5 Min's. rinsed 3 time with fresh water. dried it with
Methyl Hydrate and washed it down with Lacquer thinner. Then I tried to remove some dents with the wet cloth and iron again without any luck. All in all, they
look pretty good. Lightened both pieces some but mainly made them pretty uniform, And Dammed Clean !!!
Next I'll let it dry good and wet sand it with 320 wet sandpaper with
"Birchwood Casey" Tru-Oil and go from there. Jack
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beanstrung |
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WAIT!
Don't use the B-C Tru-Oil! Check out our C&R Stock Forum at this link, and read some of the posts & stickys. You'll get a more original finish with either Boiled Linseed Oil or Tung Oil. Link: http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/101
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10 |
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Ed Novak |
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"wet sand it with 320 grit.." You are kidding, aren't you?
NRA Endowment member
LECS #2 |
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Chief Oshkosh |
don't | ||
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Bleaching has the potential of lessening the contrast/highlights in wood graining. I did it once on a nice Finn M91 long time ago and wish I hadn't.
Resist the temptation of make these veterans "purdy".
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Black Lab |
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Ed Novak wrote:I read on another forum that in the final stage of sanding, that wet sanding with your chosen finish, helps the oil to penetrate the wood. After I wet sanded it I wiped it dry with a shop towel and hand rubbed it dry. followed with 3 more hand rubbed coats. Then I left for a 5 day fishing trip. When I got home yesterday It looked great, as far as a custom rifle goes. Would not look good on a Military rifle though I agree. I steel wooled it with supper fine steel wool and then will apply Areo Paste wax after dinner tonight. I'll let you know how it turned out later tonight. |
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Black Lab |
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I read the post by Cabinetman http://parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/topic/16600 And it was pretty much
the same thing that I did. I lightly sanded it with 320 wet/dry sand paper with the Tru Oil to help it penitrate the grain. Then dried it, followed with about
4 hand rubbed coats, followed with a rub down with Super fine steel wool.Then a coat of Aero wax paste. About the only difference between the original stock
and the part that I did was that it was Walnut compared to the Beech or what ever they used on the #5 JC. Reason for all this is, I wanted to put a recoil pad
on a JC to use for a Camp/Truck gun and I didn't want to Muck up the #5 butt. It's hard to even notice the different butt stock
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bobby00000 |
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Chief Oshkosh wrote: i agreee here i did the same thing i found a wood brightener that works miracles, its much better than bleech i tried bleech on a gew 88 stock nvr again ami going to do that |
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