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| Author | Comment | ||
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 DarkDeserter |
1903 Turkish Mauser's bolt broke |
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Posts: 1 (12/06/07 07:53 PM) |
Hi everyone, my bolt action on my Turkish Mauser broke, and I can't find a place to buy one and since I'm not really an expert with guns I don't
know if I could just find a different year bolt and it would work, or if I have to have the same exact year. If anyone can help me find a new bolt action
I'll be eternally great full.
(If you need pictures tell me and I'll post them) |
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WVchuck |
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Posts: 10088 (12/06/07 08:42 PM) Forum Site Moderator |
What part of the bolt is broken, and more importantly, why/how did it break?
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 beanstrung |
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Posts: 3944 (12/06/07 09:15 PM) Forum Site Moderator
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Why do you think it's broken?
Is it because it won't go back into the rifle? The photos you mention would help greatly!
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10
Last Edited By: beanstrung
12/06/07 11:11 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 2 (12/06/07 10:18 PM) |
I don't really know how it broke too be honest, I was trying to clean the rifle and the bolt seemed stuck and after a few tries it finally came undone but then the little piece fell out. |
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beanstrung |
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Posts: 3946 (12/06/07 11:10 PM) Forum Site Moderator
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Looks like the safety came out. Also, in the photo, the cocking-piece, and firing-pin are missing as well. Do you still have all of the parts?
If so, you most likely just need to put them back together. Here's a link to a step-by-step photo illustrated bolt assembly instruction: http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/mauserboltdisassembly/index.asp And if that's not enough, here's a link to a video on how to do it: http://www.surplusrifle.com/videowmv/swedish100.wmv If you are missing any of the parts shown in the diagram, you only need the missing part, not the whole bolt.
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10 |
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 3 (12/06/07 11:21 PM) |
It seems the "cocking sleeve" is actually broke and I can't seem to dissemble the bolt... it wont do the rotate. I think I just have to get a
whole new bolt. I also have the parts too, here are some pictures of them:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/5098/morestufic1.jpg Edit: Too me it looks like the Cocking sleeve broke off somehow... it looks like it broke some that would be the holder for it. If I put the safetly lever back were it used to be and same with the cocking sleeve, I can't seem to move the safety lever anymore (if that helps). Edit2:This is strange, I tried to put all the parts back together and the bolt wont go in all the way because it seems the "retaining pin" is blocking it, see the picture below for more details. 
As you can see here the "retaining pin" is keeping the bolt from going in. (Jeez I'm confused now...  )
Last Edited By: DarkDeserter
12/07/07 05:27 AM.
Edited 7 times.
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WVchuck |
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Posts: 10096 (12/07/07 07:04 AM) Forum Site Moderator |
It's not broke, you need to re-cock the firing pin and put the safety in the 12:00 (straight up) position to finish screwing it into the bolt body.
Find a flat surface to set the cocking piece on, pull back on it and flip the safety up. A third hand helps with this process, but can be done (with practice) with two. Whew, I thought you meant part of your bolt literally broke off.
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 4 (12/07/07 04:36 PM) |
I can't seem to move it at all, and when the cocking sleeve is in with the safety, I can't move the safety at all, but if the cocking sleeve isn't
in with the safety I can move the safety but the safety wont stay in the same place.
I sat there for about 3 hours trying to get it to move, and it wont budge. ( I wonder how I managed to move it before O.o, and without knowing!) |
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WVchuck |
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Posts: 10099 (12/07/07 07:03 PM) Forum Site Moderator |
I wish you lived close enough for me to say, bring it over and let's take a look at it here.
Have you got anyone there that is familiar with Mausers that can help? If the cocking piece is broken, all you need is a new cocking piece. Getting it all apart without that piece to get the safety in the proper position for a take-down is going to be a challenge, but it can be done.
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 5 (12/07/07 07:32 PM) |
Sadly I don't have anyone that can help me, I've sat there for awhile trying to get it, I just can't seem to get it to move.
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NC Cruffler |
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Posts: 107 (12/07/07 07:49 PM) active member |
DO NOT TRY TO COCK THE BOLT BY PRESSING THE COCKING PIECE AGAINST YOUR WIFE'S, MOTHER-IN-LAW'S, GRANDMOTHER'S OR ANY OTHER'S WOOD DINING ROOM
TABLE TOP!
Many divorces and nights in the den were initiated by this act! Dave
Dave Green, NRA Life Member since 1973
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NC Cruffler |
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Posts: 108 (12/07/07 08:14 PM) active member |
With the previous warning in post, I proceed.
1. remove the bolt from the rifle 2. hold bolt body and unscrew counterclockwise the bolt sleeve (shroud) assembly from the body and remove 3. take the bolt sleeve assembly (includes firing pin, spring, safety) and insert the firing pin into the stock collar (metal hole) in the base of you rifle's stock. 4. depress the whole thing compressing the firing pin spring and remove the cocking piece from the end of the firing pin by rotating it 90º and lifting it off the pin 5. release the pressure on the firing pin (slowly) 6. insert the safety into the bolt sleeve with the safety pointing at the 12 o'clock position 7. place the bolt sleeve onto the firing pin/spring assembly and again depress while in the stock collar 8. place the cocking piece onto the exposed end of the firing pin at a 90º angle to the 12 o'clock safety. when it goes down all the way and you see the flat end of the firing pin sticking a bit out of the end of the cocking peice, rotate it 90º so that the flat protrusion if the piece is at the 6 o'clock position opposite the safety. 9. release tension on the spring. 10. insert the firing assembly into the bolt and turn clockwise until the curved cut out on the sleeve stops at the bolt handle. you may have to push in the little pin (called the bolt sleeve lock) a time or two to get it past the bolt handle to seat all the way when you turn it. 11. allign the extractor so the bolt may be inserted into the receiver and close the bolt 12.move safety 90º to left to fire (9 o'clock position) Lemme know if this works Dave
Dave Green, NRA Life Member since 1973
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beanstrung |
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Posts: 3949 (12/07/07 09:00 PM) Forum Site Moderator
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Hey Guys,
In his second set of photos, it looks like the cocking-piece is either broken in half or missing. He very likely can't do the edge-of-the-table re-cock. See enhanced photo below: 
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10
Last Edited By: beanstrung
12/07/07 09:12 PM.
Edited 2 times.
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 6 (12/08/07 01:16 AM) |
@NC Cruffler:
I can't even seem to unscrew the bolt sleeve piece. It's like it's stuck... @beanstrung: I've been trying to do that my entire situation, I push the button and try to twist it but I can't seem to get it to budge at all. If I need to provide more pictures tell me, I really want to get this fixed  .
Last Edited By: DarkDeserter
12/08/07 01:25 AM.
Edited 5 times.
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jwh2 |
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Posts: 1533 (12/08/07 02:02 AM) |
Could you post a clear photo from the rear of the bolt sleeve, showing the back end of the firing pin? Joe |
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Mr Pale Horse |
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Posts: 113 (12/08/07 02:09 AM) active member |
Here is your problem.
The 98 mauser firing pin front has shoulders on it that prevent it from moving forward unless the bolt is turned closed. The shoulders pass into slots in the bolt head and only then can the firing pin protrude from the bolt face. This combined with the flats on the back end of the firing pin locks the sleeve/shroud, firing pin, and bolt body in fired position. Cock on opening pulls the firing pin back just enough to clear the shoulders and allow rotation. Check and see if a millimeter of so of firing pin is sticking out of the bolt face. If it is, with your cocking piece gone (and possibly part of the aft portion of the firing pin gone from the picture) the cock on opening movement of the firing pin is not happening, and your bolt is staying locked in fired position. You need a padded vise to hold the bolt, and a fine small diameter punch to push the firing pin back into the bolt body until the sleeve/firing pin will rotate. Once it does, it will still catch every 180 degrees until the threads have carried the shoulder back away from the bolt head recesses. Looks like a new cocking piece and/or firing pin are needed at a minimum.
Last Edited By: Mr Pale Horse
12/08/07 02:13 AM.
Edited 1 times.
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DarkDeserter |
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Posts: 7 (12/08/07 02:38 AM) |
Here you go:
I can't ever seem to get a good quality shot, I hope these are good enough. Somehow I think buying a new bolt would be easier after reading your post Mr.pale, because I honestly have no idea what you just said. I guess I'm an idiot when it comes to stuff like this  .
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WVchuck |
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Posts: 10102 (12/08/07 07:11 AM) Forum Site Moderator |
You don't need a new bolt, just to get that one cleared & a cocking piece installed.
Unless you stumble across a steal of a deal on a 1903 bolt, you'll pay as much or more for it than than you did for the rifle. It might be time to get to a gunsmith.
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jwh2 |
1903 Turk bolt | ||
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Posts: 1534 (12/08/07 03:58 PM) |
I can't determine anything about the firing pin from the photos. I was hoping to see if the rear portion of the
firing pin was broken or if the cocking piece was in the correct position on the firing pin.
Last Edited By: jwh2
12/08/07 04:09 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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NC Cruffler |
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Posts: 112 (12/14/07 09:33 PM) active member |
O.K., where are we at with this?
Dave Green, NRA Life Member since 1973
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beanstrung |
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Posts: 3977 (12/14/07 10:59 PM) Forum Site Moderator
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I I had it, and could play with it a while, I think I could get it apart and fix it. It's just hard to explain how in a posting...
Of course, I might ruin it forever, too...!
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What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10 |
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