Any idea's why this thing won't come off? I'm pressing the spring down as far as it'll go & I tap the nose cap & it's doing nothing but making me irratable.
Parallax's
Contributor's Related Sites
CurioandRelic's
John from Texas's
Turkish Model 88/05/38 Conversion Rifles

Surplus Rifle.Com's Rifle Data Section's
| About this site |
|---|
| C&R Dealer Links | General Related Links |
| The Member's Map | The Gun Control Forum |
Due to the main focus of this site on the collecting and shooting
of C&R and military surplus firearms in their collectible original configurations,
sporterising topics will not be permitted in these fourms.
Thankyou,
ParallaxBill
Parallax's Trader Boards
See the new location at the bottom of the forum list
**Membership applications no longer required to post but you still must be registered.**
No dealers please!
Back in Production, New and Improved
Darrell's Scout Mount Page & Forum
| Author | Comment | ||
|---|---|---|---|
69kHz |
Front band from hell!! |
Lead | |
|
For the life of me I can't get the front band off this 1893 turk.. I tried many times squeezing the spring down with rubber sleeved pliers, & very
difficult holding everything while trying to tap with mallet & dowel, I'm ready to just snap the barrel out of the stock & just get another stock..
Any idea's why this thing won't come off? I'm pressing the spring down as far as it'll go & I tap the nose cap & it's doing nothing but making me irratable. |
|||
Mad 4 Mausers |
|||
|
Try removing the cleaning rod, it's a great help.
|
|||
69kHz |
|||
|
I knew someone would come in with a wise remark.
There is no cleaning rod. |
|||
scooter222 |
|||
|
Try tapping it from the butt side instead of the muzzel side..
Seriuosly, try warming it up real good with a hairdryer. I had a nose cap or H band that was glued on by the hardened gunk.. take your time. You realy
don't want to break the stock.
|
|||
WVchuck |
|||
|
I've got a method that is sure fire, but it involves a screwdriver and a hammer.
Make sure you've got the rifle padded & secure in a mount, make sure the screw driver blade is a little less wide than the front band spring. Get the blade lined up against the edge of the band and give it a good whack, that usually knocks it loose enough to bring the band out from it's bond to the spring and can be removed normally afterward.
|
|||
Mad 4 Mausers |
|||
|
Since you've verified having removed the cleaning rod, try using a small C-clamp with suitable padding, and screwing it down as much as possible. Since
your hands are thereby freed, tap away on the on the band groove with your screwdriver and the sling mount boss. Giving it a whack on the band edge as WV Chuck
suggests sounds like a good idea, too.
|
|||
ab4ka |
|||
|
I have the same problem with my 1903. I figured it was because it's in a model 38 stock and everything just didn't quite fit right. I know the cleaning
rod didn't want to go in, but I made it go (don't go there...I can get it out if I really want to
"Do your duty in all things. You cannot do more, you should never wish to do less." Robert E. Lee
|
|||
OldIronMan |
|||
|
I've had to use the C-clamp method. It worked well. The problem in my case was dirt and cosmoline that wouldn't allow the retaining spring to be fully
depressed easily. I had to use something, a nut, I think, between the C-clamp and spring to fully depress it without squeezing the stock.
"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
|
|||
jjk308 |
|||
|
I just wedge the rifle, barrel down, against a table, the muzzle maybe 6 inches above the table edge, stick a LOOOOONG screwdriver in the junction of the
front band and the spring, push the spring down then push the screwdriver handle up so the top of the blade pries the band off. Works 100% when you get the
knack as the screwdriver length gives you lots of leverage. You may need someone to hold the rifle in place. Do not try to push or hammer the band forward
and off until that spring's down as you'll just rip the back end of the spring through the stock, cracking it.
Problem with c clamps is that using them too far back on the spring may also crack the stock. be careful if you clamp. |
|||
99car |
nose caps | ||
|
Don't mean to hijack, but is heat the best way to take off a stuck H band? I find these harder to move than a '93 or '03 nose cap.
|
|||
scooter222 |
|||
|
Make sure the spring is pushed all the way in. I then use a hardwood dowel to tap around on all sides. Move it slowly so you don't mar anything.
|
|||
69kHz |
|||
|
Thank you everyone.. gonna try these tips out tommorow.
|
|||
69kHz |
|||
jjk308 wrote: And this was the winner.
Worked like a charm... thanks |
|||
jjk308 |
|||
|
Thanks for the praise.
I pulled one last weekend, that was pretty difficult. Had to hammer on the screwdriver a bit until the spring went down, likely frozen in place by rust or crud. Once I did that, got it down all the way once, the push and pry worked fine. I can usually do it by myself by holding the rifle butt between my feet to stop it from turning on the table edge, but I really should have just hammered a couple 1 1/2 x 3/4 srips of wood on a board far enough apart for the butt to fit between, then stood on it. Of course I just thought this up now that I've disassembled 150 of the turks and the supply has dried up! |
|||
HLGRAY |
|||
|
Does it have a screw or brad in the front band? If so, remove it first.
|
|||
jjk308 |
|||
|
I've never seen a turk (or swede, same layout) with a screw in the nosecap (AKA front band) The newer pistol grip type stocks often have one in the rear
band, even if there's a retention spring on it.
|
|||
temperflash |
|||
|
If I remember correctly my Spanish 93 Mauser had a small plate in the front of the band with a hole for the cleaning rod. To remove the band you had to first
remove the little plate. Not sure if thats the same on other 93 rifles or not.
|
|||
beanstrung |
|||
|
What TemperFlash mentions, is similar to the Argentine model 91's...
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
What part of "shall not be infringed" don't you understand? Joel 3:9-10 |
|||