Eric
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eb in oregon |
Ross bayonet |
Lead | |
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So, what do you think is a reasonable value for a 1905 Ross bayonet without scabbard?
Eric
"We must all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately."
Benjamin Franklin, July 4 1776 |
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eb in oregon |
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Well, I guess their worth 69.00 without a scabbard, because that's what I paid for it.
Anybody have a scabbard? Eric
"We must all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately."
Benjamin Franklin, July 4 1776
Last Edited By: eb in oregon
02/27/09 11:46 AM.
Edited 1 times.
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99car |
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I think it's worth alot more than that EB, nice score.
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eb in oregon |
The whole set | ||
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I purchased this 1905 Ross bayonet for a little under $70.00. This last week I found and purchased another bayonet and scabbard for about $60.00.
The "new" bayonet is missing the latch assembly. However I now have a complete set for $130.00 and I'll either make a reproduction latch or just sell the bayonet. I think I did O.K.
Any opinions?
"We must all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately."
Benjamin Franklin, July 4 1776 |
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eb in oregon |
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What would one recommend to apply to the scabbard to protect and preserve the leather? Or is the "historical" approach to just leave it be? This has
never been an issue to me before, bayonet collection is, like, a new thing for me.
eb
"We must all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately."
Benjamin Franklin, July 4 1776 |
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Alexei |
Leather care | ||
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Hi EB. I guess if you do anything regarding leather it's controversial, but, unless it's worth a lot of money, what are you harming ? A lot of guys
in the WW1 re-enacting community used a leather treatment product called: "Pecard's". It is available in a couple of forms, but I always used
the liquid, which you brush on. After it dries somewhat, you wipe and/or buff it off. It is a synthetic wax in solution, and it kinda fills in the dry,
flaky patches. I think it works great. Regards.
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oldsmithy |
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I just started using Pecards as well, it seems to do a great job and dosnt "stain" the leather like some treatments
Carl
www.old-smithy.info |
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painterjohn |
I am certainly no expert!! | ||
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But, I have been using the pecards and loving it for slings and frogs for some time..Very glad to hear it has passed the "OldSmithy Test" You can get
many conflicting opinions about any leather dressing when asking but I tried Pecards and have been using it ever since...No problems noted and nothing has
rotted any further or turned into a pile of fibrous threads on me...
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TP |
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Eb, You have a very nice scabbard there, the Ross bayonet scabbards are hard to find. For preservation of the item, the best thing is nothing at all. Keep in a
stable environment with humidity levels between 50% - 60%, a stable temperature that is comfortable to you and out of direct sunlight. And at all costs, avoid
"preservatives" that contain petroleum products - most (if not all) "mink oils", neatsfoot oil COMPOUND, and (people are NOT going to like
this) Pecards products. Once petroleum products and biproducts have been introduced into the leather, the damage is done and it will, over time, damage the
leather, shortening it's life expectancy.
If the item is a user grade leather item, by all means use the above if you like, the damage is slow to happen and the item will be thrown away when worn out, so it is fine for work boots and military reproductions used by reenactors, but collectible items, especially scarce ones, should be preserved with an eye to the future. What to use? The best thing is still a light coat of PURE neatsfoot oil just as it has been for hundreds of years. Do not put it on over dirt, clean the item carefully with a high grade of saddle soap (watch out for petroleum content here too) and, when almost dry, apply with the fingers, a LIGHT coat of pure neatsfoot oil. More is not better, the least you can use is best. It will darken the leather so if you feel you must do something you will just have to live with that. It will look blotchy when first applied but it will disperse itself through the leather in a few days and even out. On the scabbard, the grain (flesh side) has been rubbed raw in places and the abraded areas will stay darker but they will be protected by the oil from further drying out for the future. Sorry if the above causes any concern or if it diverges from thought out opinion and any replies or different opinions can be stated with no offense taken by me. I have been working with leather, new and old, for almost 30 years and I at one time made quite a bit of reproduction leather gear for reenactors. I have used all of the products above, good and so called bad, over that time and know highly experienced professionals (many with far more experience than I have) who have used them in their proper place but who have the same considered opinions that I have. Best advice? Think and read labels before you use something on an antique that should be preserved for future generations' enjoyment so that they can be informed.
Last Edited By: TP
08/18/09 01:11 PM.
Edited 3 times.
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