I think I may actually try an "abbreviated" method on some of my recurring rusty bores, which is to just thoroughly clean the bore with blackpowder solvent like B-C. I have tight cleaning jags sized for 7.62 and a few nylon brushes, a few tight patches soaked with the BP solvent, followed by loose patches in a slotted tip, and then follow it with Hoppe's "bench rest" cleaner that supposedly works into the metal to loosen old carbon. After that, I will use my favorite anti-rust product, which is Eezox. Eezox has never failed me and has prevented rust on even my most stubborn guns.

For example, I have a French 1892 revolver that came to me with scattered spots of rust living inside old pitting on the frame and cylinder. I must have taken the rust off 3 times already with fine 0000 steel wool and oil. I haven't checked this revolver for a long time, and sure enough, theres rust in the old pits again! I think once rust has "touched" metal it will just keep coming back in the same spots unless it is thoroughly iradicated and the weapon in religiously kept covered in a dry protectant like Eezox or something else.

As for the silicone wipes, I decided to only use them on a few of my more "beat up" rifles as a test. I decided if I do use the wipes to confine their use only to metal from now on. The wood on the rifles looks fine, but these are rifles that I wouldn't really bother or need to rub oil into the stock. My nicer rifles just get eezox on the metal and the wood is left alone. Since my current situation requires me to be away from my guns for longer periods of time, I need to find a way to keep them protected. Even in my climate controlled basement from time to time some spots of "haze rust" will appear on totally clean firearms, usually on unblued metal like bolts. I don't know what the long term effects of silicone on wood stocks would be, I would think the layer of silicone would just lay on top and eventually get rubbed off by handling, but I'm no expert and I defintitely don't want to seal the grain.