Norinco .308

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RBier	Norinco .308	Lead	[-]
Posts: 268 (03/31/09 02:31 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Tags : None I have a line on 3 spam cans of norinco .308. I know it is corrosive. can anyone tell me what the going price for his stuff is?
Japlmg		#1	[-]
Posts: 298 (03/31/09 09:20 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	30 to 35 cents per round. Gregg
musketshooter		#2	[-]
Posts: 234 (04/01/09 09:17 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I would not give more than 15 cents for it. It is steel case and is the most corrosive ammo that was ever made. The only worth is in the bullets and powder. I would never shoot that stuff in any semi auto rifle! I rebarrelled an M1 for a friend that had shot that stuff and cleaned with Hoppes. After sitting a couple of months, the chamber was completely corroded with red rust. I cost him nearly $300 to use that horrible ammo.
Japlmg		#3	[-]
Posts: 299 (04/02/09 05:39 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Your friend needs to learn how to clean a rifle after firing corrosive ammo. Hoppes will NOT cut, desolve or remove the corrosive salts left behind by any corrosive primer. That Chinese 7.62x51 is good plinking ammo. Gregg
Czubek		#4	[-]
Posts: 1136 (04/05/09 07:48 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Japlmg wrote: Your friend needs to learn how to clean a rifle after firing corrosive ammo. Hoppes will NOT cut, desolve or remove the corrosive salts left behind by any corrosive primer. That Chinese 7.62x51 is good plinking ammo. Gregg You mean all these years of using Hoppe's after shooting corrosive ammunition and having perfect bores is an illusion? Brian
m1 talker		#5	[-]
Posts: 6648 (04/05/09 10:49 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I seem to recall some discussion we had here several years ago and the consensus was that the OLD Hoppes #9 was formulated with water in it and it would remove the corrosive salts. But somewhere along the line and passage of time, it got reformulated and now is made without water, so it is not effective against the corrosive salts like the old stuff was. Problem is when was this changeover made and how much of the old stuff is still sitting on dealer's shelves. I don't worry about it because I always flush the bore and wipe the bolt head with water after firing and dry it with on old bore snake and then leave the big cleaning job for when I get home. Curt
dutchmills	Hot Soapy Water	#6	[-]
Posts: 747 (04/06/09 09:01 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	Many moons ago (and I mean many!!) Uncle Sam taught me to clean my M-1 Garand with hot, soapy, water. Been cleaning everything including front loaders that way ever since, cheap and effective. If it aint broke, dont fix it! DM
NC Cruffler		#7	[-]
Posts: 542 (04/06/09 07:24 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I've got several 16 oz. plastic squirt-top bottles of Hoppes No.9 and the labels on the ones I just looked at have "Removes corrosive primer fouling and residue" printed on the front. I'm of a mind that it doesn't matter much what you use (though I'm a diehard Hoppes fan) as long as you use enough and are thorough, meaning barrel, chamber, receiver interior, bolt head and firing pin- anywhere "fouling and residue" may accumulate. Meanwhile my search for a Hoppes No.9 car air freshener continues... Dave Dave Green, NRA Life Member since 1973
buck98k		#8	[-]
Posts: 127 (04/14/09 04:55 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I picked up a case of 1945 army bore cleaner a few years back the (white stuff in 6 oz cans) workes great clean every thing with it never had a problem buck98k
silvermaple	Norinco 7.62x39	#9	[-]
Posts: 309 (04/16/09 07:53 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	The Norinco ammo was bought in the 80's for the SKS China, the ammo was ( China north Industries Corp ), Beijing, china, all copper washed packed in a yellow box good clean stuff 7.62x39 steel core. So I been doing some playing with my Roma. AK for the last two months, sighting in with Norinco, I thought, is this stuff corrosive?? So I did a ( test ) pulled a bullet, dumped the powder, clamped in vice, fired off primer with punch and hammer onto a bare clean sheet of steel, the test plate has been setting out side in a damp shed now for a week, looks OK, just black residue looking. If there was salt, it would change all kinds of colors. So if the price is right, I would buy the 308. My M1A 308 only gets hand loads for targets and hunting, save the ruff stuff for later. Armand After all this commotion I cant remember if I fired 72 times or 75?? do you feel lucky??
dutchmills	Hoppes Nr. 9 air freshener	#10	[-]
Posts: 754 (04/16/09 10:30 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	I have to admit, I had'nt thought of that one! Love it! As an old Artillery man, do ya think I could get one that smells like a just fired 8 inch howitzer? You know, charge 7 white bag? A whiff of that will make you stand tall, proud to be an American! (we used to yell something else when the gun fired, but this is a family site) DM
mauserand9mm		#11	[-]
Posts: 1260 (04/17/09 05:06 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts Message Me Connection Blocking Invite Ignore User's Posts Report Post	The corrosive issue has been dealt with on many posts at this forum - all you need is water to dissolve and flush away the salts from the fired primer compound, simple as that. You can use Hoppes or anything else to flush away the salts but water alone will do the trick. The water needs to be removed afterwards of course, or you can use hot water which will evaporate. A flush with hot water and then standard powder fouling removal (eg Hoppes) and final oil treatment will be good. Copper solvents can be water based so this needs to be thouroughly removed whatever stage of the cleaning process it is used in. My standard cleaning routine sequence is: 1. hot water flush 2. Hoppes powder fouling removal 3. Sweets copper fouling removal 4. Hoppes powder fouling removal 5. dry patch 5. Oil the bore There are many variations that work.

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