Replacement bolt heads for No.4 Mk2(F) in The Lee Enfield Forum Forum

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Replacement bolt heads for No.4 Mk2(F)

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jscally	Replacement bolt heads for No.4 Mk2(F)	Lead	[-]
Posts: 4 Jun 10 12 7:16 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : enfield, bolt, head Hi, All. I have a No.4 Mk2 - the serial numer line starts 2/52[PF - where I started experiencing case seperation about 2 years ago, even with factory new ammo. Prior to that it had functioned flawlessly. I only use factory ammo as I did not want to encounter "hot" rounds some people produce with reloading. On the bolt in the top groove is stamped "PG19", on the ejection side rear of the bolt is stamped "48"on the opposite side is "62 15", in the groove side of the bolt head is stamped what appears to be a crown and an "F". Does anyone know what significance these markings have? and does it give any clue as to what size head is on the bolt? Second question - does anyone know where replacement bolt heads can be purchased. I have googled but always end up with the same results (Hoosier gun works, wiki information on Lee Enfield and different gun forums) but nothing that points to a specific place or persons where they can be purchased. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Bundook		#1	[-]
Posts: 654 Jun 10 12 9:13 PM Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Jscally, welcome to the forum. There is usually a number (0, 1, 2, or 3) stamped on the bolt head right next to the "guide rib" groove -- although I do have a couple of bolt heads without this number. If you think you have a headspace problem and need a longer blot head, you should contact Brian Dick at (bdlltd.com), call him -- he knows everything there is to know about L/Es. Good luck.
jscally		#2	[-]
Posts: 4 Jun 11 12 12:13 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Bundook, thanks for the tip. On the guide rib is stamped a number 1. I talked to Brian and, understandably, he wants me to use a micrometer to measure the bold head (from step to face only) and send him the measurements. I'll get that done as soon as possible. Unfortunately it seems just replacing the bolt head with a #2, or #3 is likely to not fix the problem due to the individual manufacturing process used for the L/Es. I also have to find a magazine for it as the last gunsmith I took it to for the case separation issue lost the matched magazine. My understanding is that, like the bolt head, the magazine is specific to the rifle and you can't just buy a new/used one and expect it to work out of the box. This is my favorite rifle and very worth the time and effort to make it functional again.
Ed Novak		#3	[-]
Posts: 4318 Jun 11 12 12:49 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Hello, jscally. Welcome to the site. Your gunsmith owes you a magazine, from what you say. A numbers-matching magazine for your rifle is nice but millions of the No.4s were built with the next magazine in the bin put into them - there is nothing 'critical' to a magazine other than it be a magazine for the No.4 and the lips are properly tuned. Magazines, number-matching to the rifle were standard on 'contract rifles' and in some other situations (as were bayonets/scabbards). A replacement magazine should be available from Springfield Sporters, Numrich/GunParts, Liberty Tree, BDL and many other sources. The No.4 was produced with the concept of replaceable bolt-heads (0, 1, 2 and 3 and sometimes someone reports a 4) to accommodate wear. Although everyone could wish for a properly head-spaced No.4 to have a '0' bolt-head, many brand new rifles came out of the arsenal with a '3' bolt-head. Brian asked you to measure your bolt-head because within any 0, 1, 2 or 3 sized heads, there will be 'long and short' boltheads due to the use of new or worn manufacturing tools. In fact, a survey or surveys of bolt-head sizes has been done and reported in the archives of this forum or the Gunboards LE forum showing that sometimes a '0' bolthead, for instance, may have dimensions clearly entering into the domain of a '1' bolt-head, etc. You should also understand that U.S. manufactured .303Br cartridges typically have a 'thin' rim on them which, in a 'dimensionally-challenged' situation can create a head-space problem. If you reload, the current Privi-Partisan brass is reportedly closest to the military-spec brass in rim thickness and is Boxer primed. Also, U.S. produced .303Br commercial ammunition is intentionally 'down-loaded' to lower chamber pressure than the mil-spec Mk. VII ammunition for 'liability concerns'. Brian should be able to provide a suitable bolt-head that will work for you, the No.4 is very forgiving but, ultimately, there is NO substitute for knowing your rifle's headspace as it now stands and giving that information to Brian for him to work with along with the dimension of your present bolt-head. I have been dealing with Brian for more than a decade and trust him without reservation but he needs all the information you can give him to work with. ed NRA Endowment member LECS #2 Air Force Association Life Member MOAA Member
Parashooter		#4	[-]
Posts: 2009 Jun 11 12 1:11 PM Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	jscally wrote: My understanding is that, like the bolt head, the magazine is specific to the rifle and you can't just buy a new/used one and expect it to work out of the box. Your understanding is erroneous. Any magazine for a No.4 (or No.5) rifle should fit and function if it hasn't been damaged or altered - and any unmolested No.4 bolt head of appropriate length and timing should also function. Lee-Enfield rifles do not go from working normally to causing head separations with good, new ammunition by magic. Before proceeding with bolt head replacement, it would be advisable to find out what went wrong. Was the bolt body changed out? Did the rifle experience a severe high pressure event such as a faulty cartridge or bore obstruction? Are you using ammunition with undersize rims (thinner than .054")? At least measure the rifle's current headspace dimension before going ahead blindly with parts replacement.
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jscally		#5	[-]
Posts: 4 Jun 12 12 11:41 AM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Thanks for the info on the magazine - nice to know it will be simple to replace. In regards to the case separation there was no severe high pressure event (faulty cartridge or bore obstruction) and the bolt body is the one that came with it when purchased - no other bolts have ever been used on it. I will check on the ammunition rim size as well.
Bundook		#6	[-]
Posts: 654 Jun 12 12 12:27 PM Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	jscally, just a thought.... perhaps you may consider investing in a good set of British head space gauges (Go .064, NoGo .070, and Field .074). In the US, .070 is specified as Field Gauge, but I am guessing that this came about as the afore mentioned "liabilities concerns" by highly paid SAAMI attorneys. The British military spec gauges are available in Canada like Marstar, with whom I have dealt with for a number of years. Regarding replacement mags, other than the mentioned web stores, you can sometimes find them at gun shows. Look for one that is not too dinged up. When pushed down, the follower should go up and down smoothly and easily. The follower spring in L/E mags are not hard and are easy and soft to push down on. NEVER buy a commercial replacement mag -- they are just plain wrong -- their springs are way too stiff, and the mags have very sharp corners ready to cut your hand. Make sure you are buying a No.4 mag, which has one "locking wedge" on the back of the mag, as compared to magazines for the No.1 rifle which have two "locking wedges" -- but I'm sure you already know that, right?.... Regarding tuning the mag's front ears for smooth feed, get a few snap caps and work the action. Don't touch the ears if your mag feeds well, but if it needs adjustments for either ammo column, use a pair of small pliers and make small adjustments by bending, pull and/or twisting the ear(s) inwards, outwards, down or upwards -- it's a fairly intuitive process. Good luck.
jscally		#7	[-]
Posts: 4 Jun 12 12 1:06 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Thanks Bundook. I will look into the head space gauges and avoid the commercial replacement mags. I was unable to find a micrometer locally that worked correctly with the step clearance so I used a fractional caliper. The #1 head measurements came out at .6315" all the way around (face to step). The overturn on the bolt head measured 0.1165" from the outside of the groove guide on the bolt head to the groove guide on the bolt body when it is screwed in completely. The brass rim measurements varied from .0560" to .0590" this included measuring the rim on two of the cases that had separation (not quite completely through). I sent the measurements off to Brian - hopefully they make sense and I haven't messed something up completely.
Ed Novak		#8	[-]
Posts: 4318 Jun 12 12 5:45 PM Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	The only headspace gauge needed is the .074" Field ("Field Reject") gauge. .070 is NOT milspec "Field". SAAMI spec and Mil spec are two different spec's so the easiest thing to do is to buy a .074" gauge, regardless of the 'name'. If your bolt, when you have fitted a new/better bolt head will not close on the .074" Field gauge, your rifle is 'good to go' wrt headspace. I purchased my .074" gauge from Clymer's many years ago - cost about $35 IIRC. Many people advocate the 'coin type' gauges; they cost essentially the same. I recently loaned my Clymer gauge to a friend and sent along my coin gauge (7.62X54R) and asked that his father (a machinist) measure the gauge for me - curiosity's sake kind of thing and it was found to be 'lop-sided' with the thickness .001 - .002 greater in some sectors. An easy way to determine whether a magazine is for an SMLE/No.1 or for a No.4/5 is to look at the indentations on the side wall - if they run completely to the bottom of the magazine, it is for an SMLE whereas if the indentations stop about 1/4" above the bottom, it is a No.4/5 magazine. Rim thickness on the cartridges is usually not a critical issue but if you plan to keep your fired brass for reloading, be aware that thin rimmed brass is just as expensive as thick rimmed brass and will 'wear out' more quickly. I have recently been given some Privi Partisan once-fired brass and it will be replacing my UMC brass. Privi Partisan brass has been spoken well of by many who say that it is very close to Mk.VII specifications. ed NRA Endowment member LECS #2 Air Force Association Life Member MOAA Member
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